Aeration: - essential factor to aquarium fish.

As we all know rivers and lakes are the natural habits for fish and other marines. Rivers and lakes have large surface area which makes maximum provision of oxygen for fish survival possible. On the other hand aquarium is not like river or lake, it has a smaller surface area and there is limited movement of habitats.

This makes provision of alternative means of oxygen for fish to breathe important. This artificial process of providing oxygen is called aeration. It's a simple process of re-oxygenating the water in aquarium tank.

The Aerating System:

This is the series of material that increases the supply of air (thereby increasing oxygen concentration) they are:
  1. the air pump
  2. t-pieces
  3. rubber tubing
  4. clamp or regulator
  5. diffusers or airstone

Air pumps come in different shapes and sizes but the most popular ones are tecax air pump from Taiwan together with 'dyna free, and the dragon' another popular one is super 555 from India though cheaper, but not as rugged. Occasionally available are the more expensive whisper and rens air pumps from Uk and rance respectively. Always place air pumps above the water level hooked to a non-vibrating material.

You can accomplish aeration in your aquarium tank by using the above listed aeration materials. This materials form aeration system. For small tanks all you need is to attach simple aquarium air pump to airstone by means of rubber air tube. The system will   be blowing air into the water which cause motion in aquarium tank and thus provide necessary oxygen your fish needs to breathe in aquarium.
Algae Problems in aquarium tank: simple and effective solutions.

Eradication of encrusting algae could be done simply by periodically scraping the sides of the aquarium or scrubbing the rocks.

For those with plastic plants and a completely white gravel bed, the situation could be more tasking as it would be necessary to bleach the rocks to remove all traces of algae.

However, if you do this, do make sure that you rinse the gravel thoroughly afterwards. Bleach is highly toxic, and even small amounts can have a drastic effect on the aquarium fish.

Since the primary cause of green algae is too much light. The fist step in the treatment schedule should be light reduction then partial water changes and an adequate stocking with natural aquarium plants. A final treatment with an algal remedy should ensure that the problem is eradicated and is at least kept at bay for some time.

One of the factors mentioned above is the use of natural aquatic plants as a means of control. This is really more effective than many people think.

For a start, luxuriant plant growth will filter out some of the light keeping algae in check. In addition plants absorb a large variety of chemicals from the water, thereby starving algae of some of their essential nutrients e.g. nitrates (not nitrites).

Surprising though it may seem, and adequate plant stocking level is approximately 50 small plants per square root of available space. The last treatment mentioned is the use of an algaecide. I must stress the word "use:" - it is very different to "abuse"!

Yet despite this difference, I know that some people will still persist in pouring the chemical remedy into their aquarium and expect the problem to disappear overnight, even though they have done absolutely nothing to alter the conditions in the tank that brought about the problem in the first place.

The conditions I stated above have to be adhering to for any lasting effect to occur! Now that we know how to curb the menace of the green algae, we shall discuss its "sister" - the brown encrusting algae whose case is the reverse of the green.
Aquarium: 12 essential factors for a complete aquarium tank.
  1. Location of the tank in a sport which is draft free and has a moderate amount of light for 8 to 10 hours. This will ensure the safety of the tank and the inhabitants.
  2. Location of the aquarium tank where water spillage a day will do no damage, at a height convenient for working, and in a place where it will not have to be moved.
  3. Proper sand gravel (not too large, not too five).
  4. Conditioned water - free of chlorine, dirt, excess hardness, excess acidity, or excess alkalinity. Hard, acidic, dirty water is not suitable for aquarium. It will make life uncomfortable for fish and leads to constant fish death.
  5. Availability of plants properly place is highly essential too.
  6. Proper, even temperature for the species.
  7. Decoration and furnishing if you desire them.
  8. Aeration to supply additional oxygen.
  9. Filtration to remove excesses waste products.
  10. Fish which will live peacefully together.
  11. Food to keep them health.
  12. kits and utensils to make maintenance easy.

Aquarium fish death: precautions of young aquarist.

Another thing to watch out for in a newly installed tank is the quantity of food: very little of this should be given during the fist three weeks. Mind you! I am not suggesting that you should not give them food at all, because without food, no bacterial flora forms. The food supply to the bacteria should be increased only very gradually.

Fish keepers with old functional aquariums should avoid general cleaning that is washing of sand/gravel, scrubbing of tank wall and complete water changes so as not to disturb the bacterial flora.

When you have to service, it should just be the removal of the mulm and dead leaves sufficient to ensure adequate flow through the filter and no more. The bad habit of replacing the entire filter material or the soiled part with fresh materials is detrimental to fish life. Most bacterial live in the sludge at the bottom of the tank, so don't throw them away.

Many pet shops that operate a house-to-house maintenance routine on aquariums are used to the habit of complete overhaul which invariably lead to fish death. I have met many people who have said, "I used to service my tank myself. On close scrutiny I discovered that he indulge in the unforgivable habit of washing the aquarium with detergents!

In real life situation, no one can attest to having experienced a complete overhaul of a river bed. The only thing that happens during heavy rains or flood is the partial/complete change of the water body. The bed, sand and gravel components get cleaned but not overhauled.

This is nature's method of 'servicing' the fish's natural environment. So why don't we all adopt nature's method. Professional aquatic pet dealer's service aquariums in the same way, and to the committed aquarist, I will advice you to do this yourself!
 Aquarium fish: -guide to buying new fish.

 It's very important as part of your plan for having successful aquarium to take note of the type of inhabitants, which one of them is fish. Never buy fish before finding out about its requirement first.

You really need to take your time to ask questions and be very observant when you are in aquarium store. There are lots of aquarium stores with unknowledgeable owners so you don't base your decision on their advice alone make sure you take a look at the fish yourself. If the store has staffs you can make a friend with them they will possibly tell you more about the lifestyle of the fish you are intending to pick.
Though, we will be giving you some basic guidelines to consider when buying new fish.

The following points all need to be considered:
  1. Is your tank at the right temperature?
  2. Are your water conditions correct?
  3. How big does it get? - It may be small now, but will your other fish be at risk when it grows?
  4. Is it a territorial - or will it be happier in a group?
  5. Can you supply the right food for it?

Remember that the key to successful fishkeeping is happy, stress-free fish, so don't be tempted into buying an incompatible species jut because you think it's attractive - you'll regret it.

Sometimes it can be difficult to be patient, particularly if the dealer has a species of fish that you really want. But it's important not to rush things. Don't try to add too many fish to your tank at once - and always check that the fish are healthy.
Aquarium fish health: The cotton: - Mouth disease (Mouthfungus).

The cotton: - Mouth disease (Mouthfungus). This disease is not as common as the while- spot desease, but, it is highly infectious and contagious.

The victim show a whitish fungus round the cheeks and lips. The lips may become swollen and rot away. Sometimes a rotten strip of lip attached only at one end will move in and out of the mouth as the fish breathes.

Infested fishes lose their appetitie and their movement become sluggish. If no adequate treatment is given, the whole frontal part of the head may be eaten away finally and the fish dies.

Unless the affected fish is of consideration value, it should be killed before this fatal disease attack the other occupants, of the tank.

But if it is desired to keep the fish and in case the infection has already been passed on to other occupants, the following treatment is advised:

Swabbing the mouth of the victims with a soft cloth dipped in strong salt solution, then keep the patreat isolated in a bucket or jar containing a strong salt water.
  1. Try swabbing the lips with a 5 per cent silver mercury preparation.
  2. Make a solution of Terramycin or Aureomycuin by dissolving 50mg per gallon of water, a rapid cure is expected within 48 hours.


The most common remedy is the popular Methylene blue solution. Sick fishes should be placed in a jar, bucket or a treatment tank into which has been added a methylene per blue to colour the water deep blue.
Aquarium fish health: White spot disease, symptom and cure.

Fish death is one of the main problem that beginner aquarist and even few experts. It's so frustrating to the extent that most quit keeping life aquarium fish. Most fish death are cause as a result of parasites both internal and external types that compete with you fish in tank.  If you watch your aquarium fish often you should be able to discover when they have been infected by this parasite and be able to treat them to avoid fish death. Look out for the following behavioral symptoms in your fish.
 
  1. Constant lying on the bottom or hanging at the surface.
  2. Rubbing of the body against rocks.
  3. Gasping at the water surface.
  4. Non response of feeding.
  5. General dullness and lethargy
  1. hovering in a corner
  2. fish swimming with clamps up

White Spot: - the most common of the visible signs is the development of the pin head-size while sports on the body or fins. This ailment is referred to as white Spot caused by the parasite - Ichthyophthirius Multifillis.

This parasite has a free-swimming stage, which attaches itself to the fish. The most common chemical used in treating infected fishes is Methylene Blue. You could buy a one per cent stock solution from a reputable chemist or aquarium shop and apply at 0.8 to 1.0ml per gallon of water. This amount should be added all at once. Repeat after one or two days.

The fishes must remain in this bath until every while spot has disappeared. A water change after treatment is necessary or else prolonged contact with the chemical may affect the fertility of the fish. Aquariust using side filter with activated charcoal should remove this gadget to prevent the coal from absorbing the blue dye.

During treatment, you should use artificial aeration with coarse bubbles near the surface, since a dirty bottom would inactivate the medicament by absorption. A better measure is to remove all dirt from the bottom before treatment.

Methylene Blue is harmless to young fishes and unlike the general belief, it does not affect plants if used in weaker concentration.
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